But Kopp’s makes a couple of different flavors every single day of the year. Vanilla and Swiss chocolate are always available. Vanilla is pure and white and thick and monomaniacally delicious. To taste it is to know why Kopp’s has been a beloved Milwaukee institution since Elsie Kopp opened her first stand in 1950. It is hypnotic to watch it pour from great silver machines behind the counter. Custard like this is a Wisconsin passion, and good reason for natives of the Badger State to consider themselves America’s ice cream elite. But the foundation is the important part: ivory-white custard made from high-butterfat ingredients with none of the thickeners and stabilizers that gunk up commonplace ice cream. The sauces are excellent, the toasted nuts are a revelation. A blueprint for the staggering Kopp’s Special shows pineapple and raspberry sauces, sliced bananas, hot fudge, toasted pecans, and a cherry on top. Some of the sundaes Kopp’s makes with this custard are so elaborate that the management has been known to offer architectural diagrams pointing out various ingredients and their place in the construction of each concoction. (There is no seating.) As is the custom in Milwaukee, burgers ooze with butter.Ĭustard is the specialty of the house. Kopp’s is a joyful place where eaters chow down wherever they can find a place to lean, inside or out.
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